Three Michelin stars have been awarded to the Manoir Restaurant Inter Scaldes in Kruiningen, the Netherlands.
Rating: 98 out of 100.
In December, Inter Scaldes was granted a third Michelin star in the 2018 guide for the Netherlands, which was published in January.
Zeeland, in the Netherlands’ southern province of Zeeland, is possibly the country’s most gastronomically diverse region, particularly for seafood lovers. The province has a population of roughly 380,000 people, making it one of the least densely inhabited provinces in the Netherlands, compared to, for example, 2.4 million people in the neighboring province of Noord-Brabant. In spite of this, the province has no less than nine Michelin stars, making it the province with the greatest density of Michelin stars per population in the country. However, Zeeland is not just about Michelin-starred restaurants; it is also home to a plethora of unpretentious eateries where you can savor fresh, locally sourced seafood, with a special emphasis on freshly collected oysters and mussels.
Internationally, Zeeland was formerly well-known as the location of Sergio Herman’s three-star restaurant Oud Sluis, which closed in 2013. However, another well-established restaurant in the region is Manoir Inter Scaldes in the town of Kruiningen, which opened in 2007. Inter Scaldes has been a two-Michelin-starred establishment for more than three decades (since 1984), first under the ownership of Maartje (chef) and Kees (maitre d’hôtel) Boudeling, and since 2001 under the ownership of another husband and wife team, Jannis (chef) and Claudia (maitre d’hôtel) Brevet. A short distance away from the mussel and oyster capital of the Netherlands, Yerseke, lies the hamlet of Kruiningen, which is situated on Zuid-Beveland, a middle peninsula of Zeeland between the Oosterschelde and Westerschelde estuaries (the Latin phrase “inter Scaldes” means “between the Scheldts”). The Manoir, which is just across the street from the restaurant, is home to 12 luxurious rooms and suites, as well as the couple’s significant collection of modern art, which is housed inside the property.Thanks to Inter Scaldes for the image.
Dinner and lunch are served at Inter Scaldes every day from Wednesday through Sunday (no lunch on Saturday though). The restaurant serves an a la carte menu (starters from €39 to €95, mains from €54 to €120, desserts from €20) as well as a tasting menu (5 courses from €125 to €165) and a wine list. Inter Scaldes was the setting for a lunch date with my spouse in July 2017, during which we both purchased the 8-course tasting menu. *I was recognized and the lobster dish was free.
The first to appear were three appetisers that were beautifully arranged. A lovely soft and sweet pear marshmallow cloud with a hazelnut garnish was presented on a spoon, while the other two desserts were delivered in little bowls. There were two of them: the first included a piece of delicious Northsea crab, as well as strained yogurt and a delicate lavender dressing, while the other held silky pea crème, cucumber-infused watermelon, and a few dots of red pepper puree. Even better than the three excellent appetisers was the crackling specialty amuse bouche, which was based on the traditional Caprese salad. Throughout the dish, dots of tomato puree, basil puree, mozzarella crème, and olive oil crème were meticulously placed on top of a transparent and properly seasoned tomato jelly. This is a fantastic flavor combination, with each of the various flavors coming through well.
There was also an extra course of skillfully cooked “Oosterschelde” lobster tail, topped with a brunoise of chopped egg white, hazelnut, truffle and claw meat, and served with fresh strawberries, pistachio purée, artichoke purée, and a light and buttery dressing, as well as a dessert course of chocolate mousse. A delectable meal that was done with amazing perfection. The lobster was succulent and meaty, and it went very well with the brunoise, whose sweetness was accentuated by the artichoke puree. In addition, the use of strawberry was well-judged, as it provided a pleasant touch of sweet acidity just towards the conclusion.
Served as the first course of the tasting menu, three delicately crafted, decadent little towers of light and silky avocado puree topped with a delicately flavoured coconut flan, fresh coconut, a lavish spoonful of Anna Royal Dutch caviar, and garnished with a thin chicken crisp were served as the first course of the tasting menu. A visually attractive meal with well balanced flavors, as well as an excellent presentation. The avocado puree had a clean, fresh taste with a touch of sharpness, and the coconut flavors were prominent yet subtle at the same time, complementing the avocado. Finally, the caviar, with its saltiness giving a wonderful contrast to the smoothness and milkiness of the avocado, and the chicken crisp, which brought crunch and additional savouriness to the whole dish.
In the second dish, we got organic duck foie gras that had been nicely wrapped with a coating of gently sweet fig jam and served with a delicious and spicy fig chutney that had great zesty notes and a light Jerusalem artichoke purée, which was a pleasant touch. It was a classic flavor combination, rich yet elegant, and I like the texture of the foie gras, which was creamy and rich without being too smooth.
Following that, there were two dishes of seafood. The first course was a big and juicy langoustine served with sweet melon balls and carrot puree, which was accented by a creamy carrot and melon sauce. The second course was a grilled halibut served with a creamy carrot and melon sauce. This meal is incredibly delicate, with a lovely combination of sweet and fruity flavors, with the melon providing the ideal balance and the sauce providing a delightful, rounded finish.
This was followed by a sophisticated interpretation of the traditional Picasso sole. A beautiful piece of moist and meaty Dover sole was garnished with small cubes of peach, sliced pistachio nuts, small cubes of black truffle, and a few stalks of sea blite, and served with a delicately creamy sauce that was lightly seasoned with bay leaf and some buttery girolles, and served with a side of sea blite. Another dish on the plate was a quenelle of broccoli puree, which was mildly seasoned with yuzu and added a beautiful burst of freshness to the dish.
In the fifth course, a tableside dish of roasted young celeriac was presented, with scoops of its soft flesh being served simply with a creamy celeriac extract and freshly sliced Tasmanian truffle. A fantastic recipe, with the celeriac’s flavor intensity being simply magnificent, but it’s also a dish that requires a lot of expertise and confidence to prepare. Confidence in knowing when to stop, as well as knowledge of your ingredients; too many additives would have jumbled the lovely flavors of the celeriac; and knowledge of your ingrediens
The sixth dish was a pavé of turbot that had been perfectly prepared, adorned with caviar, sea blite, and little bits of slightly crispy potato, and was served with a creamy toasted bread sauce as a compliment. Turbot, this time a strip of flesh near the fin, coated with marinated vegetables, and some smashed potatoes (cooked in goose fat) on the other side with a plump green asparagus spear on top completed the plate of food beside the fillet of turbot. The caviar melted well with the soft turbot, the salinity of the caviar bringing out the finest in this wonderful fish while also complementing the potato. Every component of the meal was prepared to perfection with immaculate flavors, and the goose fat potatoes brought a comfortable richness to the dish. The main item on today’s tasting menu was lamb, but since I don’t like for lamb, I requested that the chef substitute something else.
The dinner followed with an orange brandy snap, which was served over a pre-dessert of chicory jelly, mascarpone, and buddha’s hand jelly, which had a coffee-like flavor. Then came the dessert, which was a creamy blanc manger with a layer of cucumber jelly and finely diced cucumber, a thin crisp biscuit, and a circle of immaculate fresh raspberries filled with a smooth watermint emulsion and dots of yuzu caramel, all surrounded by a circle of immaculate fresh raspberries filled with a smooth watermint emulsion and dots of yuzu caramel. A scoop of yoghurt ice cream was placed on the edge of the dish. A lovely dessert with the ideal balance of sweetness, creaminess, and freshness, and a very elegant way to conclude the tasting menu.
Finally, I’ll get to the point – where do I begin? I always forward to returning to Inter Scaldes since they are usually in top form, and this lunch was no exception. The service was excellent as well. My relationship with the restaurant dates back to November 2009, when I had my first lunch there. For as long as I can remember, Inter Scaldes has been considered a contender for three Michelin stars in the Netherlands, and I look forward to continuing this relationship. While my first two dinners at Inter Scaldes were fantastic, and undoubtedly at two-star level (see my 2012 review), it wasn’t until 2014 that I had the first true three-star sparks on my plate at Inter Scaldes (see review). Three Michelin stars have been awarded to Inter Scaldes for its outstanding excellence, which has been verified and exceeded by two more spectacular dinners in the previous year, leaving no question about the restaurant’s worthy status.
It’s not a habit of mine to make comparisons between restaurants in my reviews, but these meals clearly outperformed those I had the year before at three-star laureates such as Lasarte in Barcelona, Eleven Madison Park and Le Bernardin in New York City, or at that very senior member of the three-star club, The Waterside Inn in Bray, England. And don’t even get me started on Passedat, which occurs in Marseille.
Cuisine Type: Modern Cuisine
Zeeuwse kreeft met jonge groentjes, kruiden en gember
Lamsfilet ‘Alexander Calder’ met venkel, lamsoor en piquillo peper
Soufflé van kwark met vanille, citroen en champagne-kerrie ijs
Address: Zandweg 2, Kruiningen, 4416 NA, Netherlands
Phone: +31 113 381 753
Website: Inter Scaldes Official Site
Hours: Closed: 11-20 October, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday
Michelin Stars: 3