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L’OSIER Reviews

A cosmetics firm known as Shiseido has owned L’Osier since it first opened its doors in the Ginza in 1973. It was given three stars in the first Michelin Tokyo guide under the direction of head chef Bruno Ménard, but it was forced to shut in 2010 after its building was subjected to a three-year redevelopment project that compelled it to close. Osier, which is now housed in a distinct two-story structure, reopened in 2013 under the direction of new chef Olivier Chaignon. He had previously worked at Taillevent and, more recently, as head chef at Pierre Gagnaire in Tokyo before relocating to the United States. In addition to recovering its third Michelin star in 2019, the restaurant received the Tabelog silver award in both 2019 and 2018, after a bronze award in 2017. The restaurant previously received the Tabelog bronze award in 2017.

In addition to the dining room, there is a waiting area on the ground floor that is designed with a stunning glass screen in the form of a champagne bubble, and a bar on the first floor. The room is round, carpeted, and furnished with huge, evenly spaced tables and chairs. There were two tasting menu options available for 22,000 (£165) and 32,000 (£241), as well as a surprise menu for 38,000 (£286), as well as a complete a la carte selection. There were no reservations required.

The wine list varied in price from 6,000 yen (£45) to 570,000 yen (£4,279) for the Petrus 1989 (which was actually far less than its current market value of 964,000), with the majority of the wines being French, but not entirely so. A delicious Japanese white wine named Grace Toriibira Private Reserve Koshu 2017 was available for £66, compared to a retail price of £44 for a similar bottle at the store. Wine labels included Vina Tondonia Reserva 2006 at 13,000 euros for a bottle that retails for 4,133 euros in a store, Louis Jadot Puligny Montrachet Les Referts 2013 at 19,000 euros, which is a discount from its retail price of 9,220 euros, and Guigal Chateau d’Ampuis 2011 at 29,000 euros, which is a discount from its retail price of 12,876 dollars. More expensive wines were available for those with the means, like Guigal La Mouline 2000, which sold for 79,800 euros compared to its retail price of 36,054, and Mouton Rothschild 1982, which sold for 360,000 euros compared to its current market value of 179,947. Upon request, a separate list of Romanee Conti wines was made available, apparently because it was difficult to put the number of zeroes on the price in yen for these wines onto the main price list for these wines.

Canapés were served to kick off the evening’s festivities. An orange ginger biscuit with carrot flavoring was on the menu, as was a lightly spiced tart with scallop mousse, a herb ball on a cheese biscuit foundation, and a foie gras mousse tartlet on the menu. These were elegant nibbles, with delicate pastry and flavors that were clear and distinct (19/20). Then there came a cold autumn vegetable soup/jelly with Jerusalem artichokes, caramelised chestnuts, Japanese pear, and parsnip ice cream on top, which was followed by a warm autumn vegetable soup/jelly with Jerusalem artichokes, caramelised chestnuts, and Japanese pear. This may not seem to be very appetizing on the surface, but it was really rather good, thanks to the high quality of the veggies and the acidity of the pear, which cut through the richness of the dish, with the chestnuts giving an intriguing textural contrast (19/20). The bread was provided by Maison Kayser, a local offshoot of a prestigious Parisian bakery with an award-winning reputation. The breads that I sampled, particularly an olive bread, were excellent quality.

Cuisine Type: French

Specialties:

Address: 7-5-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 104-0061, Japan

Phone: +81 3-3571-6050

Website: L’OSIER Official Site

Hours: Closed: Monday, Sunday

Michelin Stars: 3