A stately 17th-century structure in Paris’s fashionable Marais, on a little lane off the Rue Vieille du Temple, formerly housed a quincaillerie, or hardware shop, until being demolished in 2013. Shinichiro Ogata, a Tokyo-based architect, designer, restaurateur, and chef, has chosen this location for his latest project — Ogata Paris, a newly opened multistory complex that includes a tea shop and tea salon, a full-service restaurant, a pastry shop, a bar, an art gallery, and a crafts and houseware store, among other things. In practically every aspect, from the drinks to the glasses in which they are delivered, Ogata has created his own picture of the finest that Japan has to offer; the restaurant is a tour de force of one man’s idea of the best that Japan has to offer. His first solo venture into France is also his first solo venture into any country, though his considered approach — to seek beauty and balance in all things — has guided all of his endeavors, including a bistro set in a plum tree-filled garden in Tokyo’s residential Meguro Ward and a collection of tree-free bamboo and bagasse paper plates made to look as thin and refined as china.
Walking through the construction site while it was still in the midst of its demolition and construction, Ogata stopped and ran his hand along a rough slab of limestone that lined the stairwell leading to the basement, where the contours of the 32-seat tearoom were just taking shape, as if he were watching a movie set being constructed. “This stone is one of a kind,” Ogata said via a translator. “It is essential to maintain a portion of France in order to avoid being obnoxious. France, in my opinion, is outside, and we are sharing some space in order to bring Japan within.”
Cuisine Type: Japanese
Address: 726 Shinkamanzacho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto, 600-8471, Japan
Phone: +81 75-344-8000
Website: Ogata Official Site
Hours: Closed: Monday, lunch : Tuesday-Saturday, Sunday
Michelin Stars: 2