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Geranium Reviews

Rasmus Kofoed, the restaurant’s head chef, has won a total of three awards in the renowned Boucse d’Or competition: bronze in 2007, silver in 2009, and gold in 2011. These awards are on display in a small cabinet in the Geranium dining room, which may be found in the corner. Rasmus had his training at the five-star Hotel d’Angleterre before moving on to the two-star Scholteshof in Belgium. Upon his return to Copenhagen in 2007, he worked at a number of local restaurants before opening Geranium in the Rosenborg Gardens the following year. However, due to the insolvency of an investor in 2009, the restaurant was forced to shut its doors. Geranium relocated to the Parken soccer stadium in 2010 after securing a new investor. It received its first Michelin star in 2012, followed by a second star in 2013, before receiving its third Michelin star in the 2016 edition.

Geranium is located on the eighth floor of the stadium and can be reached using a lift that can be found on the ground level. In addition, this only begins running fifteen minutes before service, so if you come earlier than that, you will have to wait; if you have time to spend, there is a lovely park with a great lake just across the street from the stadium if you need to kill time. The dining area, which offers a beautiful view of the park and has well-spaced tables with an open kitchen at one end, is spacious and comfortable.

At the beginning of the dinner, a series of snacks came on the table. A little dish of savoury lobster was served with walnut mayonnaise, milk, rye vinegar, and juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn, among other accompaniments. The latter is quite astringent, and although I have definitely enjoyed much sourder versions of foods made with it, I found it to be a little overwhelming. The carrot flavor, as well as the flavor of the shellfish, came through strongly, and the meal had a pleasing umami (savoury) flavor profile (16/20). Jerusalem artichoke leaves were cooked with a mayonnaise made from walnut oil and rye vinegar, resulting in delicate small crisps with a pleasant flavor (17/20). A spoonful of fragrant herbs and flowers was presented next, which you were invited to drop into a dish of tomato water and ham fat, which was in the shape of a gel. Quite delicious, with the aroma of the herbs balancing off the tomato flavor of the stock (16/20)

Next came burned potato served as “stones” beside actual stones, with a dip of sheep’s butter flavored with a scent from bark to accompany them. The potato was great, and the mild flavor of the sheep butter (17/20) went well with it. The “Dillstone” mackerel was served with a horseradish cream sauce and frozen dill juice from pickled dill. The flavors were robust yet harmonized, with the sting of horseradish elevating the mackerel and the dill balancing out the innate oiliness of the fish (a score of 18 out of 20). It was a thin dough that had been decorated with ashes and algae, and it was filled with razor clam tartar, tarragon, parsley, sour cream, and other ingredients. This was delicious, with the clam flavor being well balanced by the herbs and what seemed to be a hint of citrus flavor, the whole design being rather innovative, but most importantly, it tasted great (19 out of 20).

First up on the menu, discs of softly pickled yellow beets were served with a vinegar gel and fragrant seeds on top. The meal was also served with smoked yoghurt juice and beach plant oil, among other things. Exceptionally good, with the earthy flavor of the beetroot coming through clearly, and the yoghurt being beautifully matched by a subtle sourness from the vinegar gel (18/20). In the next course, we had fresh Danish white asparagus in layers with asparagus vinegar and verbena, presented with scallop roe juice and brown butter on the side, as well as little tarts of scallop and dried wild trout. White asparagus was in short supply this year, and its earthiness provided an intriguing counterpoint to the innate sweetness of the shellfish (which received a score of 17/20).
Haddock served with parsley stems and Finnish caviar in clarified buttermilk, as well as crispy fish scales, was salted and lightly smoked and served with crispy fish scales. Although this meal was aesthetically pleasing, it also had well-balanced flavors, with the saltiness of the caviar serving as a natural seasoning for the fish, the herbs complementing the haddock, and the scales providing a textural contrast (18/21).
There were three options for bread: crunchy grains, gluten-free bread with seeds, and tiny rolls of bread with grains. All three options were cooked from scratch. The texture on all of them was great (18/20). One of the dishes, a miniature soup of creamy summer vegetables, including leeks and new potatoes, included a grilled oyster, pickled elderflowers and peas, oyster foam, wild herbs, grill asparagus, melted pork fat and sunflower seeds as well as melted “Vesterhafs” aged cheese from north-west Denmark, which was garnished with truffle. The asparagus had a strong flavor, and the egg, cheese, and herbs worked nicely together to provide a satisfying overall impact (17/20) on the palate. Onto the following course, which consisted of pan-fried morels with mustard seeds, mustard cress (made from the juice of roasted duck feet), roasted pig jus, sunflower seeds, and truffle (17/20). The morels were a little gritty in spots, but the sting of mustard made up for it (17/20).

Cooked for 20 hours, the final delicious meal was Danish pork neck with young cabbage leaves, pickled young garlic, pine oil, and black currant leaves, all served with pig jus. The beef was really soft, and the earthy flavor of the cabbage made for an excellent combination with it, with the garlic adding a nice lift to the overall flavor of the meal (18/20).

It was served in a crisp beetroot sphere with freeze-dried rhubarb, yoghurt, tagetes (a kind of sunflower), and fragrant fresh thyme blossoms, among other things. This was a nice pseudo-savoury dessert, despite the fact that I do not like for them in general. The sharpness of the rhubarb and yoghurt cut through the yoghurt (16/20). Then there was the ice cream, which was created with beeswax, pollen, and honey and served with cloudberries, which are the most Scandinavian of fruits. This was a successful combination, with the acidity of the berries perfectly complementing the sweetness of the honey (17/20). Final and extremely lovely dessert of wood sorrel granita and woodruff-infused white chocolate cream included a “apple tree” of prune caramel, which customers are urged to break up and then mix with the cream. The flavors blended together quite nicely, albeit the caramel “tree” shattered into jagged shards that were difficult to chew (15 out of 20). Because I am not a lover of liquorice, I am unable to comment on the liquorice mousse in the form of a skull that emerged at the conclusion of the film.

Withhe coffee came a selection of petit fours, including caramel with fennel seeds and gooseberry tea, crisp beetroot and lingonberry puree, soft cake with pumpkin seed marzipan, uncooked cookie dough and chocolate with oats and sea buckthorn powder, and finally green egg with pine and marshmallow topped with a hip rose (pictured). Certainly, these were technically done, but surely, at the conclusion of a long dinner, the majority of people would prefer a simple chocolate with their coffee rather than being continually confronted with different flavors?

A large number of the items were given directly by the cooks, which made for exceptional service. The price amounted to DKK 2,000 per person (£206) including tax and gratuity. If you and your friends split a moderate bottle of wine, the average cost per person would be roughly £250. When you consider the normally high pricing in Scandinavia, as well as the obvious levels of culinary ability on exhibit here, it does not seem to be an exorbitant amount. Overall, the lunch was quite pleasurable, thanks to the high quality of the materials, the appealing presentation of the meals, and the skillful preparation of the dishes in mainly acceptable flavor combinations.

There was just one tasting menu available, which cost DKK 2,000 (£206). The cuisine consists mostly of locally sourced vegetables and fish, with just one meat dish available to us during our visit. The wine selection is extensive, with over 1,900 different labels on sale, all of which are kept in temperature-controlled chambers at one end of the restaurant for your convenience. A few examples include the Monteverro Vermentino 2013, which was sold for DKK450 for a bottle that would normally sell for DKK130 on the high street, the Egon Muller Riesling Kabinett 2014, which was sold for DKK600 compared to its retail price of DKK499, and the Meursault Pacalet 2014, which was sold for DKK1,500 for a bottle that would normally sell for DKK814 in a shop. It was a relative bargain for those with the wherewithal to purchase the magnificent Coche Dury Meursault Les Perrieres 2005 for DKK 19,500, which was actually less than its current market price of DKK 23,182.

Cuisine Type: Creative, Contemporary

Specialties:
Scallop and horseradish

Hake with caviar and buttermilk

Wood sorrel and woodruff

Address: Per Henrik Lings Allé, Parken National Stadium, Copenhagen, 2100 Ø, Denmark

Phone: +45 69 96 00 20

Website: Geranium Official Site

Hours: Closed: 28 July-3 August, 19 December-4 January, Monday, Tuesday, lunch : Wednesday-Friday, Sunday

Michelin Stars: 3